The Road Goes Ever On...

But it's not always a trail! This is the last picture I took on the Appalachian Trail in Connecticut last month and a picture from the Great Wall of China a few weeks later.

After enjoying a short break in New York City, I headed off on another big trip but as part of a family of four this time around. Our trip took us to Shanghai, China for final weeks of the 2010 World Expo and included stops in Beijing and Xi'an as well. China was amazing but it was a very urban adventure that contrasted well with my AT experience. For those dedicated hikers out there, once you finish the Triple Crown in the United States (Appalachian Trail, Continental Divide Trail, Pacific Crest Trail), the Great Wall of China stretches 5,500 miles and is waiting to be conquered... Good luck!

I am working on a video slide show of my whole AT experience, so stay tuned for one last post. Thanks to everyone for your support and encouragement along the way!

All Aboard!

Highgear and I are at the Appalachian Trail train station outside Pawling, NY with only 7 miles to go into CT. From here, you can take a train from the trail directly into New York City. Talk about a change in scenery for the average thruhiker! It's an experience not to be missed on the trail.

Why aren't they waving back?

I admit it may not be easy to see in the picture, but the New York City skyline is visible from the Appalachian Trail here on Black Mountain. I'm waving hello right now!

I (heart) NY

Crossed the border into New York yesterday on the rocky ridge above Greenwood Lake. The weather has been beautiful fall breezes for the most part. The forest is anything but quiet as thousands of acorns are falling like rocks from the trees with each breeze. So far, no bumps on the head but a few near misses!

Southbound to South America

I stopped for a lunch break at Sunrise Pavillion atop the Sunrise Mountain ridge here in Sussex County, NJ. Amazingly, over 50 broadtail hawks, eagles, and osprey have passed over in just less than 1 hour! Luckily, some keen birdwatchers up here informed me that today is very close to peak season for the raptor migration. The hawks will ride the thermals along the ridge lines about 400 miles a day all the way to South America. What a lucky day to be hiking the ridge!

A great way to end a day

After hiking the Kittatinny Ridge, we took a brisk swim in Catfish Pond. Weekend guests on the hike are a great benefit of being so close to home!

E-ZPass accepted!

What? You thought that just because someone is hiking they shouldn't go through a toll booth at the New Jersey border!?!

No such luck! The AT crosses the PA/NJ state line on the Interstate 80 bridge across the Delaware River and passes right by the toll booth. In Water Gap, PA, they're setting up for a jazz festival right on the trail. Still plenty of room for blankets on the hillside…

Back to the AT!

After a great beach trip with the family, I am back to the woods. Starting out with a stay at Mohican Outdoor Center tonight. In the morning, my hike will start from the Deleware Water Gap where the trail crosses from Pennsylvania and head north into New Jersey along the Kittatinny Ridge in the Poconos.

A vacation from my vacation

Ok. I reralize hiking the AT is very relaxing in its own way but, for me, it has become a pretty sollitary adventure now that I'm heading south and on a unique schedule. So, I'm taking a short break and heading down to Coastal Castle in Litchfield, SC, for some beach, bike riding, and general hang time with the family. I took the bus south from NH to NYC and will head to SC soon. Enjoy the summer!

Bound to happen sooner or later...

Sprained my right ankle on the rocks in the White Mountains sometime yesterday. No problem making it the AMC Mizpah Spring Hut yesterday but it was still a bit swollen and sore this morning. I was able to hike out to the Highland Center in Crwford Notch as planned so I am pretty sure it's not broken or hurt more seriously. I'll R.I.C.E. (rest, ice, compression, elevation) it this afternoon and where I stand in the morning.

The top of new england

Hello from Mt Washington!

Paul Bunyon!

Met Paul in Rumford, Maine, on the way to Mt Washington in New Hampshire. Changing up the hiking plan a bit after the 100 mile wilderness and Baxter State Park. Still hiking!

1 more day in the 100-mile wilderness

Hard to see but I'm standing at the edge of the barren mountain rockslide. It happened ages ago (I'll have to verify that…) so I am less worried about it than I am about the huge thunderclouds that just rolled in above me in the last fifteen minutes. Gotta run!

How to get out of the 100 mile wilderness…

Maine has hundreds of beautiful and secluded lakes. The Appalachian Trail runs by several including Nahmakanta Lake behind me. One awesome way to get around to these remote places is by seaplane. Tonight, Captain Jim from Katahdin Air picked me up and flew me back to Millinocket to spend the night, take a shower, do laundry, etc. Surprisingly, it's not much more than car service to Newark Airport! A cool little side adventure here in Maine!

I made it!

To the top of Baxter Peak and Mount Katahdin, that is…
Traditionaly, this truly treacherous climb is the end of the AT for northbound hikers. You have to summit and climb back down in a single day since the weather can be deadly on top and changes quickly. It took me about 13.5 hours to do the loop. Yep, this included some unanticipated night hiking. Tough way to start a southbound hike, but I made it and made the next 10 miles out of Baxter State Park today in beautiful weather. A true blessing!

The Flip!

  I made it to Maine and am blogging from the Appalachian Trail Lodge here in Millinocket. Tomorrow morning at 5am, I'll get up and shuttle out to Baxter State Park to summit Katahdin. The early northbounders have already started to finish and over 400 southbounders are on their way at this point as well. Given my late start (see earlier posts…), I'm flipping. In the AT community, this means I started out in one direction and changed directions along the way to avoid weather issues or for some reason.
In my case, I will probably flip again once I get to the Hudson River in early October and start northbound from Roanoke. It's not conventional but it means I can complete my thruhike at home in New York City. And that will be pretty cool!

Dragon's Tooth

Just a cliff, right? No; it's the AT climbing up Dragon's Tooth outside Roanoke. Still hot today!

Eastern continental divide

I'd experiment and pour some water on both sides of the sign but it is so hot and humid up here today that I don't have any to spare!

Bland County, VA

One of the great benefits of my hike has been enjoying the people and countryside surrounding the Trail as much as the hike itself. This was exemplified by my great transit through Bland County, VA. For this, I am deeply grateful to Elmer and Anne for their hospitality, assistance, and frienship this week. From the "prize winning" Pig Roast celebrating Independence Day in Ceres to the last stop at the Falls of Dismall Creek, they made my hike fun and fulfilling. Thank you!

The Great Valley

Yesterday, the trail ran across the great valley of appalachia. The great valley extends from pennsylvania down through virginia. In the early 1700's, this was the primary migration path into what was then the colonial frontier. At the foot of the Wilderness Wagon Road was the Cumberland Gap and Daniel Boone's Wildrness Trail to Kentucky. Many of the immigrants seeking new land in southwest virginia were Scot-Irish or German families. The Appalachian Trail passes through a living history museum that was a farmstead settled during the colonial days and maintained as it was in the 1890's. The original log cabin built even earlier is still a part of the main family house.
Upstairs is a loom used to make linen and linsey-woolsey from the flax grown on the farm. Check out more info at www.settlersmuseum.com.
Today, I left the valley and climbed big walker mountain which forms one ridge of the great valley. It's clear after today's climb why the settler's smartly came down trails in the valleys!

Goodbye to Farsight and Highgear

We had a great time hiking and camping together! We covered about 47 miles of trail and had some great adventures. Farsight and Highgear are off to Kentucky today. Thanks to Pops and Grammy for driving over. See you up the trail next month!

Free range ponies on the AT

The Virginia Highlands were beautiful today. We met seven of the free range ponies that roam the region. Hikers Highgear and Farsight did great today. Tomorrow, we continue hiking the highlands and hope to get camp set up before the afternoon thunderstorms roll over Mt Rogers.
Mt Rogers was named in honor of Virginia's first geologist. William Barton Rogers also founded a school in Boston that is celebrating 150 years of life next year. Check out their website at http://www.mit.edu/.
;-)

Welcome to Virginia!

We've crossed the border from TN into VA. 3 states down; many to go. Trail progresses over 500 miles through VA. About 4 miles to trail town Damascus...

Big storm

A big storm blew in just as we were starting to fix dinner but our tent was up so were dry inside. We'll wait for it to blow over. Everyone is fine as we get ready to cross into Virginia and hike into Damascus tomorrow.

New hikers!

Great new hiking companions for the week! We'll keep you updated…

Watauga Dam

Trail crosses on a road across the top of this earthen dam. This dam is built from rock blasted from the mountainsides behind me. Like Fontana Dam in NC, it is part of the TVA system as well.
I'm looking forward to some new hiking partners in 2 days!

Mail at 5800 feet

There's a mailbox on top of Roan Mountain's Jane Bald. Check out baatanygoatproject.blogspot.com to find out why.

Cloudland

Behind me is Roan High Bluff. A luxury hotel and summer resort was here for 20 years but was dismantled in the early 1900's because the season was too short and the journey to the top of the mountain too difficult. Now, the mountain is a state park and has the world's largest natural rhodedendron garden.
Yes, it is as cold, wet, foggy, and rainy as you would expect from a place called Cloudland.

What's up? Are you stuck?

Nope. Just enjoying a break from the Trail for a couple of days courtesy of my inlaws who just returned to western North Carolina for the summer. After leaving Erwin, TN, we drove through Asheville, NC, and had dinner at www.earlygirleatery.com . (Excellent, by the way.) Then, back to Cherokee. I will be back on the trail later this week.

Tight squeeze!

From downhill looking up, the trail goes right through a tree....
The arch is only 2 feet tall, so I had to find a way around. (Just kkidding.)

Still on the TN/NC border

Pic from trail at Sam's Gap. I-26 crossing in the background. Trail goes through underpass.

Up in the clouds today.

Rain in the valleys today. Near camp creek bald and viking mtn north of hot springs.

Lover's Leap

Overlooking the hot springs spa and the French Broad River.

Hello from Max Patch!

Max Patch is a beautiful bald summit with miles of views in all directions on rare clear days like today. The view behind me is southwest back over Snowbird Mtn. Max is supposedly named after Maximillian, a prize horse who kept escaping his pasture to return to his favorite patch of grass up here on the summit. Warplanes used to land here on the summit. During WW I, German naval officers were interred in nearby Hot Springs, NC. That's where I'm headed now!

Yes, you see bears in the Smokies.

This guy (girl?)  has been hanging around the shelter all evening. First, it was smelling food from our dinner. Now, it is snacking on some of the plants about 25 yards away. Seems totally unphased by us. There are about a dozen people here. I've got better pics on the other camera but here is one from the droid for the blog. Sleep tight tonight!

Last night in the Smokies!

Back on the AT!

Thanks to Kirk for hosting a much needed 2 days of drying, healing, cleaning, and recuperating at his house in Cherokee, NC. Back to Newfound Gap and on north. Chill in air but the sun is shining!

It's all down from here!

Down yes, but not downhill unfortunately. Clingman's Dome is the highest point on the Appalachian Trail at 6,643 feet. The last four dyas climbing up from Fontana Dam were challenging. Lots of climbs and descents, several hail and thunderstorms, way too many biting bugs, and sleeping in trail shelters. The view and the accomplishment of getting here are good. If the weather holds, I may try to push on to Newfound Gap tonight.

Evening @ Mollies Ridge Shelter in GSMP

Getting ready to hang pack up on bear cable for the night. Several fellow hikers saw the bear who's hanging in the area. If only it could eat all the bugs! Hopefully the cold tonight will help keep them at bay.

Fontana Dam looking down at the Little Tennessee River

Leaving the Nantahala Forest, I crossed Fontana Dam and got a backcountry permit to thruhike the Smokies. The visitor center at the Dam had some great info about the TVA and building the largest concrete dam in the east. Completed in 1945 after only three years, it helped Alcoa process aluminum for fighter planes and powered the development of the atomic bomb at Oak Ridge, TN. Amazing what you encounter on the AT!
Not on the same scale, but still an accomplishment, I enter the next major phase of the Trail. Hiking through GSMP will be five days of backcountry camping, major climbs and descents, and a big pack load. Oh, and bears. (I'm not worried about bears but there are several active near the shelters where I'm staying according to current park ranger notices.) I'm looking forward to the new challenges and praying for strength, grace, and sunshine.
On a technical note, the Droid will be on a limited operating schedule so I can keep it alive for five days until I get to Newfound Gap. It may look like I'm not moving, but in reality, I will be in the wilderness moving forward!
Thanks to everyone for all the help and support!

Happy Mother's Day from Cheoah Bald!

I'm taking a quick break for mother's day brunch before continuing. At 5062 feet, Cheoah is considered to be the best view in the southeastern mountains. On a sunny, clear day like today, it is easy to see why! Sorry, hard to capture the full scene on the droid camera.

Tellico Gap

Last day in Franklin, NC. Tomorrow into the NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center) via a long descent down to the river. Tellico Gap led to the local party spot 100+ years ago. Notoriously filled with outlaws and all kinds of shenanigans going back hundreds of years according to local historians.
My shananigans will likely be a simple zero day at NOC soaking my sore feet and swollen joints in the cold Nantahala River.

Wayah Bald Observation Tower

Clear skies and views into the Smokies 30+ miles away. View of Cherokee and Franklin to my left. View back into GA in front of me. Moving on!

In the clouds on top of Albert Mtn

Fire tower on top has great view of Coweeta Hydrological Research Lab forest below, south to Springer, north to Smokies. Today, like most days, just white clouds...

Hello North Carolina!

Finished AT in GA this morning. Miles to go but it's a good accomplishment. Beautiful and challenging so far. I'm lucky to have made it this far. Thanks to those who have made the dream possible!

Georgia on my mind...

Refueling with dehydrated peaches and peanut butter on the 4461 foot summit of Blood Mountain.

Happy earth day from woody gap!

Springer mountain!

Episode IV: A New Hope

I've made it to Georgia! Staying at Hiker Hostel. I've already met some great people and I look forward to starting on Springer Mountain tomorrow. We've got some rain this afternoon but the weather should be clear for tomorrow.

Appropriately for entering the wilderness at the base of my own mountain adventure, the Episocal Daily Office (Moring Prayer for the third Tuesday in Easter) begins with the following from the book of Exodus, "On the third new moon after the Israelites had gone out of the land of Egypt, on that very day, they came into the wilderness of Sinai. They had journeyed from Rephidim, entered the wilderness of Sinai, and camped in the wilderness; Israel camped there in front of the mountain..."

The Office continues with Paul's simiarly appropriate greeting to the Collosians, "May you be made strong with all the strength that comes from his glorious power, and may you be prepared to endure everything with patience, while joyfully giving thanks to the Father, who has enabled you to share in the inheritance of the saints in the light."

Good signs for the journey to come!

Take Two.

Two surgeries, three kidney stones, and five days in the hospital later, I am back on track. The trip is still on with a revised scheduled start of April 21 rather March 21. The hike will extend a bit longer into November and may require some creative directional approaches to completion so I don't get snowed out of Maine and the White Mountains. I will still head north from Georgia, but I may flip up to Maine late this summer and head south from there to complete the trail in NYC. The Metro North Harlem Line actually has a station located right on the Appalachian Trail. Five years ago, this is where I started my first backpacking trip on the AT. It seems a fitting place to finish. While not Katahdin or Springer, Grand Central Station is glorious as well.

Ignore the map above for the moment, I am experimenting with the data capture and posting process so it may not be accurate.

Plans are made. Plans change.

The first mountain to climb on this journey was a mountain of pain. Literally. Trip to GA postponed until removal of a new 8 mm kidney stone that announced it's presence late Friday night.

Still in hospital on Sunday morning.

Stay tuned...

All aboard!

Lots and lots still to accomplish. Whether all the tasks happen or not, the adventure is starting. We fly to Atlanta, GA, on Saturday morning. I'm smiling. The mix of anticipation, fear, anxiety, excitement, exhaustion, panic and even relief reminds us of deployment.

Anchors aweigh!